How to Knit a Gauge Swatch in the Round 

Originally published on January 28, 2026

In Part 1, we talked about what gauge is and why it quietly controls the size of every sweater you knit. In Part 2, you learned how to knit, block, and measure an honest flat gauge swatch. Now we’re getting to the point where flat swatches start to bend the truth - and I think this is why so many of us feel like our gauge swatches are lying: projects worked in the round.

If your sweater body, yoke, sleeves, or hat are knit in the round, a flat swatch can give you numbers that simply do not match how you actually knit those endless knit‑only rounds. This post will show you how to swatch in the round in two ways, block it, and measure it so your circular projects stop surprising you.

How to knit an accurate gauge swatch in the round

Table of Contents

• Why You Need an In‑the‑Round Swatch
• Two Ways to Swatch in the Round
  • Fake In‑the‑Round Gauge Swatch (Speed Swatch)
  • True Tube Swatch with a Steek
• Continuous Gauge Swatch with Multiple Needle Sizes
• Washing and Blocking: Wool vs. Acrylic
• Measuring Your In‑the‑Round Gauge

  • How to place the ruler accurately on your swatch

  • Classic 10 cm / 4" Window

  • Count‑More‑Then‑Calculate Method
• Why Half a Stitch Matters
• Recording Your Swatch for Future Projects
• Common Gauge Swatch Mistakes to Avoid
• What Comes Next in the Gauge Swatch Confidence Series

Why You Need a Round Swatch for Round Knitting

Your hands do not behave exactly the same way in every knitting situation.

• When you knit in the round, you usually only knit - there are no purl rows.
• When you knit flat, you alternate knit and purl rows, and many knitters naturally have slightly different tension for the two. Flat knitting tension often differs from in‑the‑round tension because when you turn your work to purl, the yarn has to travel a longer path around the needle than it does for a knit stitch.
• In the round, you simply keep knitting forward. You never turn your work to purl, so your hands stay in the same motion and your stitch tension tends to stay more consistent.

That means:

• A flat stockinette swatch (knit one row, purl one row) does not perfectly mimic stockinette in the round (knit every round).
• Your “perfect” flat gauge can still produce a sweater that is tighter or looser once you put it on if it is all knit in the round.
  
  

So whenever the main fabric of your project is worked in the round - yokes, bottom‑up bodies, sleeves, hats, socks, cowls - it is worth gifting yourself an extra hour to knit a gauge swatch in the round as well. Future‑you, zipping on a sweater that fits on the first try, will be very glad you did.

Here you can really see what I mean about checking both flat and in‑the‑round gauge. The mint swatch is knitted in the fake round on 4 mm needles, and the pink one is worked flat on 3.5 mm needles; both of them are blocked and have the same gauge. I honestly believe you can save yourself a lot of trouble and frogging if you take the extra time to swatch.

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Two Ways to Swatch in the Round

I once talked with a knitter who told me she always starts the sweater before checking her gauge, then rips everything back to start over. My lovely crafters, you do not have to do this. You also do not have to knit a tiny sweater body just to get your gauge.

There are two practical ways to swatch in the round instead:

1. A speed swatch or fake gauge swatch in the round
2. A true tube swatch (fully joined, then steeked and cut open, I personally never use that method)

They both have their place, and you can choose based on how comfortable you feel with them. Steeking is something many more advanced knitters enjoy, so you may want to start with the “fake” in‑the‑round gauge swatch first.

Here, I worked a continuous gauge swatch in the round on double pointed needles. I cast on 60 stitches, and after binding off we will add a steek and cut it open so that we can measure everything accurately.	This is a fake in‑the‑round gauge swatch, where you carry the yarn (float) across the back of your double-pointed or circular needles to imitate knitting in the round. I cast on about 35 stitches for this swatch.

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Method 1: How to Knit a Fake In‑the‑Round Gauge Swatch (Speed Swatch)

The speed swatch is my go‑to for plain stockinette or simple stitch patterns in the round. You do not actually join your stitches into a circle, but you simulate circular knitting by always knitting from the right side, never purling.
You end up with a flat piece that looks like a normal swatch from the front, with long floats of yarn running across the back.

What you need:

• The same yarn you plan to use for the project.
• The same needle size and type (material and style) you plan to use in the round.
• A tape measure and your usual blocking tools.

When we look at our yarn label or pattern, we’ll find a gauge section showing the number of stitches and rows you should achieve with a certain needle size - usually over a 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) swatch. To knit a gauge swatch, it’s best to cast on more stitches than this gauge number when you make your swatch. This gives you enough fabric to measure your gauge accurately, so you can determine the perfect stitch count for your cast-on later.

Step-by-Step Instructions

To knit a fake gauge swatch in the round, follow these step-by-step instructions to accurately mimic your circular knitting tension. A “fake gauge” (sometimes called a flat swatch for circular knitting) lets knitters check their gauge without having to knit a full tube.

Cast On Stitches

Start exactly like in the flat swatch post, just on circular needles:

• Look at the pattern gauge, for example: “22 stitches = 10 cm / 4" in stockinette in the round.”
• Cast on at least 50% more stitches, so around 34–36 stitches in this example.
Use the same circular needle (or double‑pointed needles) that you’ll use for the actual project.

Take a look at the yarn label or the gauge swatch in the pattern and use this needle size number as starting point for your gauge.	With the correct needle size and using the long tail cast on, I cast on 40 stitches (a few extra in case the floats across the back pull tight and affect my tension).

Prepare for “Fake Round” Knitting

Knit one row from right to left, just as if you were working flat.

At the end of the row, instead of turning the work, slide all stitches back to the right-hand needle tip without turning. The right side of the work always faces you.

Knit your first row as you normally would, but instead of turning your work at the end, keep the right side facing you for the next step. You now have your first right‑side “round” on the needle.	Simply slide all the stitches back to the right end of your needle, keeping the right side facing you.

Carry Yarn Loosely Behind

Now bring the working yarn behind the swatch to the starting edge. Let it float loosely; do not pull it tight.

Knit the next row from right to left, letting the loose strand drape behind your work. Be careful not to pull on the working yarn as you knit the first two stitches; if you do, the float will tighten, and we want to keep it nice and loose. If your floats end up too tight, you’ll need to cut them to get an accurate measurement.

Bring the working yarn loosely across the back of the work to the right edge	Be sure to let the float hang loosely across the back of your work.	Knit the next row from right to left, letting the loose strand drape behind your work.

Continue Swatching

Repeat this process: knit a row, slide stitches, carry the yarn loosely across the back.

Always knit on the right side - never purl. This mimics how you’d only knit in the round.

Repeat this process: knit a row, slide stitches, carry the yarn loosely across the back.	The last stitch appears loose, which is normal and nothing to worry about when making a fake in-the-round gauge swatch.

Make the Swatch Large Enough

Work your swatch to at least 15 cm (6 in) in height and a little more than 10 cm in width. This way, you’ll have enough fabric to comfortably measure your stitch gauge. The length of your project can be adjusted, but it’s important for the width to be accurate, this is essential for perfectly fitting sweaters that aren’t too loose or too tight.

For a sweater, I would make it at least 12 cm (about 4.75 in) high.	At the back, you’ll see all the floats.

Bind Off 

Bind off loosely (using an elastic bind off). If you carried the floats loosely across the back, you do not need to cut them. You also do not need to cut the working yarn - just pop a stitch marker into the last loop to keep it from unraveling. Later, you can unravel your swatch and reuse the yarn in your project, or keep the swatch as a little gauge archive; the choice is yours.

Bind off loosely (using an elastic bind off)	Place a stitch marker in the last loop to keep it from unraveling.

These floats are completely normal; they are the “proof” that you were only knitting from the right side, simulating in‑the‑round knitting without actually joining. From the front, your swatch will look like a normal piece of stockinette (or whatever stitch pattern you used), ready for blocking and measuring.

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Method 2: True Tube Swatch with a Steek

Sometimes the speed swatch is not quite enough, especially when:

• You are working stranded colorwork and want to see exactly how your floats and tension behave in a true tube.
• Your pattern uses more complex round‑based stitch patterns that might act differently when actually joined. In those cases, a little round swatch is worth the extra yarn and time.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Cast on a generous number of stitches

Again, start with the pattern gauge:

If the pattern gauge says “24 sts = 10 cm / 4" in stockinette in the round,” cast on at least 3 times that number (so around 72 stitches).

The goal is to avoid a tiny, tight circle. A very small circumference can distort the fabric and make the gauge look tighter than it will be on a real sweater body.
Join in the round, place a marker for the beginning of the round, and make sure your stitches are not twisted.

Use the same method you’ll use in your actual project. If you prefer small circular needles, knit your swatch with those, and if you love magic loop, then knit the swatch that way instead.

Step 2: Knit your tube in pattern

Work in the round in the same stitch pattern as your project:

• Stockinette in the round = knit every round.
  Colorwork = follow the chart in the round.
  Textured patterns = follow the round instructions.
• Knit until you have at least the pattern’s gauge height plus some extra (for example, 10 cm / 4" + a little buffer).

Here I worked a continuous gauge swatch in stockinette stitch in the round.

Step 3: Bind off and cut the tube open

This is the part that feels a little dramatic but is completely fine - it is just a swatch.

• Bind off loosely.
• Work a crochet steek reinforcement.
• With small, sharp scissors, carefully snip between the legs of those stitches up the column to open the tube.

Your tube will unfold into a flat piece that you can block and measure just like a normal swatch, but the fabric behavior matches how you actually knit in the round.

When I’m working a continuous gauge swatch and add a purl row to separate two needle sizes, I leave about five stitches of stockinette for the steek so I have enough room to work it.	With the yellow yarn, I worked a crochet steek and then cut the fabric open through the middle of a stitch. I’d love to turn this into a full tutorial in the future.	You don’t have to worry about your edge stitches now, because they won’t unravel.

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Continuous Gauge Swatch with Multiple Needle Sizes

If you are not sure which needle size will give you the fabric you like, you can knit a continuous gauge swatch and test several needle sizes in one long piece. This helps you compare different needle sizes, how dense the fabric feels, and how drapey or open it will be.​ It also let's you compare several fabrics side by side in the very same yarn and stitch pattern.

Step‑by‑step: multi‑needle swatch

1. 1. Cast on once
      Cast on enough stitches for a comfortable width (for example 34–40 stitches for DK/aran, more for finer yarns). Work in the stitch pattern of your project (often stockinette) with your first needle size.​

   2. Work the first section
      Knit a block of fabric, for example 10-15 cm in height, in the first needle size. This will be Section 1.​

   3. Add a separator row or ridge
      Work one garter stitch ridge (2 rows of knit) or one row of purl stitches on the right side as a clear visual separator. This tells you “a new needle size starts after this line.”​

 

I work one row of purl stitches to separate my sections.

I also work a few purl stitches at the side of the fabric as a code for my needle size:

• • 4 purl stitches mean a 4 mm needle.

  • 5 purl stitches mean a 5 mm needle.

  • 3 purls, 1‑stitch gap, 1 purl = 3.25 mm.

  • 3 purls, 1‑stitch gap, 2 purls = 3.5 mm.

  • 3 purls, 1‑stitch gap, 3 purls = 3.75 mm.

 

I worked 5 purl stitches to mark the 5 mm (US 8) needle size. You can choose any little code you like, as long as you write it down so you remember which section is which.

4. Switch to the next needle size
   Change to the next needle size (for example from 3.25 mm to 3.5 mm). Knit the same height of fabric as before, in the same stitch pattern.​

5. Repeat for more sizes
   Each time you change needle size, add the same separator again (garter ridge or purl line), then work the next section. Keep notes: “From cast‑on to first ridge = 3.25 mm, between first and second ridge = 3.5 mm,” and so on.​

At the end, you have one long swatch with clearly separated sections, each worked on a different needle size but in the same yarn and stitch pattern. After blocking and drying, you can measure each section on its own and compare both the gauge numbers and the fabric feel.

With the continuous gauge swatch you can test several needle sizes in one long piece

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Washing and blocking: Wool vs Acrylic

Just like in the flat version blocking your gauge is really important, so treat your in‑the‑round swatch like a miniature version of the finished garment.

Note: I am using the same photos as in the flat gauge swatch tutorial, because the blocking and measuring process is identical for both flat and in‑the‑round gauge swatches.

Wool and other animal fibers

For wool, alpaca, and similar fibers, a gentle soak and block is usually the best way to copy what will happen to your sweater.​

​

Fill a bowl with lukewarm water and let the swatch soak for about 15 minutes without agitating it.	Gently squeeze out excess water (no wringing or twisting).	Place it onto a towel and...

...roll it up, press to remove more moisture.	Lay the swatch flat on a dry surface and pat it into shape without stretching.	Let it dry completely.

Only measure your gauge once the swatch is fully dry. ​If you expect the garment to grow in length (for example, a heavy sweater that hangs from the shoulders), you can gently hang the completely dry swatch with a couple of clips for an hour and see if it grows in length. That gives you a more realistic row/round gauge for the actual garment.

Growth in length especially will change your row gauge. It can be helpful to tug on the swatch from all sides a few times over a couple of days to see how the fabric behaves over time under a bit of stress.

​

When we see a project for the first time, we’re usually excited and want to cast on immediately. But it’s worth giving the swatch a few gentle tugs over a couple of days before you start. Waiting just a little can save you from surprises and give you a sweater that fits perfectly.

Blocked gauge swatch

Acrylic and other non‑wool fibers

The same goes for a gauge swatch in the round. Some synthetic yarns, especially acrylics, do not change much with traditional wet blocking, so to relax the stitches or open up a stitch pattern like lace or cables, a gentle steam block usually works better.

Lay your swatch on a blocking mat	This time, pin it to the mat without stretching it too much - just enough to uncurl the edges so you can work safely without getting too close to the hot steam.

Steam your swatch from the right side Hold the steamer just above the fabric (do not touch it) and steam the swatch from the right side, being careful not to burn yourself. Let it cool completely, remove the pins, ...	...then turn it over and lightly steam it from the wrong side as well.

Be careful with heavy steam on acrylic. Over‑steaming can “kill” the yarn: the fabric goes limp, loses its bounce, and your gauge can change permanently. That might be a deliberate effect for some projects, but it is not what you want for an honest gauge swatch. If you steam at all, test on a small leftover first and keep the iron hovering above the fabric, never pressing down.

Blocked Gauge swatch

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Measuring Your In‑the‑Round Gauge

Once your swatch is completely dry and relaxed, it is time to measure both stitch and row gauge. Work on a flat surface with good light, and always measure in the calm center of the swatch, away from edges and separator ridges.​

You may know by now there is usually more than one way to do things here. Method 1 is the classic way; Method 2 is the one used most often because it avoids guessing at “half stitches.”

Tools: Rulers and Needles

For measuring, I like to use a simple school ruler - the kind you can pick up in almost any stationery shop or supermarket. It does not need to be a fancy knitting gadget; it just needs clear markings and a straight edge so you can see every stitch clearly. Be a bit careful with “special” gauge rulers bought online, especially from marketplaces or very cheap shops: if the print is even a little off, your gauge numbers will be off as well.

The same goes for your needles. Different needle materials (metal vs. wood or bamboo) and even different brands can nudge your tension up or down, so it is always best to swatch with the exact needles you plan to use for your project - whether you are working flat or in the round.

I often hear that if your gauge doesn’t match the pattern, you should switch needle material – for example, from wood to metal. But honestly, why should you? I love my wooden needles and really don’t enjoy knitting with metal ones, so I simply don’t use them. Instead, I’d much rather do a bit of math so the pattern works with my gauge and my favorite needle size. Your tools should feel good in your hands; a pattern can be adjusted, but your enjoyment shouldn’t. I’ll write a separate post soon about how to adapt patterns to your personal gauge.

How to Place the Ruler Accurately on your Swatch

Before you start measuring, it is important to know exactly where to place your ruler on an in‑the‑round swatch. Every knit stitch looks like a little ‘V,’ and you want to line up the 0 mark at the very beginning of that V, not in the middle of a stitch. The same rule applies whether your swatch was worked flat or in the round - your ruler should always sit neatly along full stitches, not slicing any of them in half.

I’ve marked the little V‑shapes here so you can get a feel for where to line up your ruler when you measure your gauge.	Here’s the same swatch without markings so you can practice spotting where the stitches begin.

The same idea counts for the end of your measuring window. Look at where the ruler hits 10 cm / 4": is it landing at the edge of a full stitch, like on the grey swatch, or halfway through a stitch, like on the pink swatch? If you can see only half a stitch under the 10 cm mark, you should not count it as a full stitch.

Here, you can clearly see that the ruler on the grey swatch ends right at the edge of the V‑shape, on the left leg of the stitch, so this counts as a full stitch.	On the pink swatch, though, the ruler stops in the middle of the V, which makes it only half a stitch and not something to count as a full one.

You also want to use this idea for your row gauge. Place your ruler so the 0 mark sits at the top of a V and measure straight down to the bottom of a V. If the ruler stops halfway through a row, treat that as half a stitch rather than rounding it up to a full one.

This is where the top of the stitch is, and where the 0 mark of the ruler should sit when you measure your row gauge.	This swatch shows a full row from top to bottom. If your ruler stops halfway through the row instead of at the bottom, that last row only counts as a half - not a full row - in your row gauge.

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Method 1: Classic 10 cm / 4" Window

This is the standard method you see in most patterns and tutorials.​

1. Lay the swatch flat without stretching.

2. Place a ruler or gauge tool over the middle of the fabric.

3. Line the 0 mark up with the left edge of a full stitch (the “V” of stockinette, not half a stitch).

4. Count how many stitches fit into 10 cm / 4".

5. Repeat for rows: align the 0 mark with the bottom of a row and count full rows over 10 cm / 4".

Write these numbers down as: “Stitch gauge: X sts = 10 cm / 4"; Row gauge: Y rows = 10 cm / 4".” You can repeat the measurement in one or two nearby spots and average the numbers if they differ slightly.

Place your ruler so the 0 mark sits at the beginning of the left leg of a stitch. Measure across to 10 cm / 4 inches and mark the stitches at both ends with a pin. If the ruler lands halfway through a stitch, mark that exact spot and write it down as a half stitch.	I have a stitch gauge: 21 sts = 10 cm / 4"

Repeat the same steps for your row gauge as well. Place the ruler so the 0 mark sits at the top of your first V‑shaped stitch and measure straight down to the bottom of a V. My swatch in the photo is a bit short; for row gauge it is better to aim for about 15 cm so you can count more rows accurately.	And this is what it looks like once everything is measured: my row gauge here is 29.5 stitches in 10 cm.

Method 2: Count‑More‑Then‑Calculate Method

Especially with darker or finer yarns and textured patterns, it can be easier - and more honest - to count over a longer distance and then do a tiny bit of math. This often gives a more accurate result than the classic 10 cm / 4" window, because any small counting errors are spread out over more stitches instead of distorting a small section.​

1. 1. Lay your ruler on the swatch and see how much length you have a few stitches in from the edges where the fabric calms down: maybe 12 cm, 15 cm, or 20 cm.​

   2. Count how many stitches fit into that full length.

   3. Divide the stitch count by the length to get stitches per cm (or per inch).

   4. Multiply by 10 or 4 to get stitches per 10 cm / 4".

You want to start measuring about three stitches in from the edge, where the stitches begin to calm down, so three stitches away from the edge is a good rule of thumb	Lay your swatch flat on your surface.	Place the ruler on top. Count only full stitches; in this example, my gauge is 24 sts = 11.4 cm approximately 4.49 inches

In my example:

• You count 24 stitches over 11.4 cm.

• 24÷ 11.4 ≈ 2.11 stitches per cm.

• 2.11 × 10 ≈ 21.1 stitches per 10 cm.

You can do the same for rows.

In my example:

• You count 33 rows over 11 cm.

• 33 ÷ 11 = 3 rows per cm

• 3 × 10 ≈ 30 rows over 10 cm

This method is especially helpful when doing a bit of sweater math and your gauge swatch is not exactly the same as the designer’s. Method 1 is also accurate, but Method 2 makes it much easier to work with half or quarter stitches because you do not have to guess at “half a stitch.” 

On very dark yarns, it can be hard to see half or quarter stitches clearly, which is why Method 2 works better for me personally.

Why Half a Stitch Matters in Gauge

Even tiny fractions of a stitch matter once you knit them around a whole body. Over a 54" / 138 cm sweater circumference, being off by just half a stitch per 10 cm can easily add up to several centimeters or a full size difference in the finished garment. This is true whether your gauge swatch was worked flat or in the round.

And I firmly believe this is one big reason we so often call our gauge “liars”: when you knit a gauge swatch flat for a project that is worked in the round, you are almost guaranteed to be at least half a stitch off - if not more.

In the photo below, the ruler stops right in the middle of a stitch – that little “V” cut in half is not a full stitch, even though it is very tempting to count it as one. For a long time, that is exactly what happened in my own swatches, and most tutorials I could find did not really talk about these half stitches, so it took me a few trial‑and‑error sweaters to notice how much they matter.

In the flat gauge post, I showed you my granny’s way of ‘count more, then calculate’ (Method 2). It works just as beautifully for in‑the‑round swatches: you count over a longer distance, do a tiny bit of math, and let the numbers include those half or quarter stitches instead of rounding them away.

Here, the ruler stops halfway through a stitch; with a light‑colored yarn, you can see this very clearly. If this were a black yarn, you would almost need a special lamp or very strong light to make the stitches visible enough to count accurately.​

Recording Your Swatch so it can Help you Later

A good swatch is not just a piece of fabric - it is a little reference card for your future self. Before you toss it into a project bag, take a minute to write everything down.​

Create a simple “swatch record” in a notebook or digital note. There is also a gauge swatch tracker you can download the same way as the printable sock knitting tracker - keeping everything in one place makes it much easier to reuse your work.​

Note down:

• Yarn: brand, fiber content, weight, and color.

• Needle size(s) and material (metal, wood, etc.).

• Stitch pattern used.

• How you washed and blocked it (soak + flat dry, machine wash, steam, etc.).

• Final stitch and row gauge for each section (for continuous swatches, one line per needle size).

• How the fabric feels: drapey, firm, too loose, perfect for sweaters, better for shawls, and so on.

You can pin a small paper tag to the swatch or add a line of purl “code” inside the fabric to remind you which needle size each section belongs to. These notes will be very useful in later posts in the series, where you will use your real gauge to adjust patterns to fit your body and your knitting style, instead of fighting to match a single number on a page.

Gauge Swatch Tracker

Common Gauge Swatch Mistakes to Avoid

Even a beautifully knitted swatch can give you the wrong numbers if a few small things go wrong. Here are the most common pitfalls to watch out for:

Measuring before washing and blocking
Unblocked fabric almost always changes size after its first wash. Always treat your swatch the same way you will treat the finished garment - wash it, let it dry completely, and only then measure.

Both of my swatches unblocked	Here are both swatches blocked; you can see how much the fabric has relaxed.

Stretching or smoothing while measuring
If you tug the fabric flat or pat it out wider, you are forcing a different gauge than it will have when worn. Lay your swatch down gently and let it rest in its natural shape before counting stitches and rows.

See how the stitches and the fabric are stretched out here.

Measuring too close to the edges
When we knit a gauge swatch in the round using the first method, the edge stitches are always a bit loose and messy. To avoid getting too close to them, cast on 6 extra stitches - 3 on each side - so you have enough space in the middle to count your stitches accurately.

The first edge stitch is often very loose. I read somewhere that if you twist your first stitch by knitting it through the back loop, the edge stitches look much neater.	I always start counting three stitches in from each side.

Swatch too small
A tiny swatch makes it hard to place a 10 cm / 4" window without touching the edges, and being off by even one or two stitches can alter your results dramatically. Aim for enough stitches and rows that you can measure comfortably in the middle.

This swatch is definitely too small to give you an accurate measurement.​

Forgetting to write things down
If you skip notes, it is easy to forget which needle size, yarn, or blocking method you used, and the swatch stops being useful later. A simple tracker or notebook entry turns each swatch into a reference you can reuse.

If you decide not to unravel your gauge swatch and keep it, you can also label it with a label printer. For this garter stitch swatch, I only wrote down the needle size, yarn, and stitch count, but if it were for a specific project, I would also add the pattern name.

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In‑the‑Round Gauge Swatch FAQ

1. Why do I need a separate gauge swatch for projects knit in the round?
Many knitters have a different tension when they knit versus when they purl, so a flat stockinette swatch (knit one row, purl one row) can give a misleading gauge for circular projects. Swatching in the round lets you knit every stitch, which better matches how you’ll work hats, sleeves, socks, and top‑down sweaters.

2. What is the difference between a “fake” in‑the‑round swatch and a tube swatch?
A “fake” in‑the‑round swatch is worked flat, but you slide the stitches back to the right side after each row and carry the yarn loosely across the back so you only ever knit. A tube swatch is a true small circular piece worked in joined rounds, which you then flatten (sometimes by cutting) to measure.

3. Which in‑the‑round swatch method should I use?
The fake‑in‑the‑round method is faster and uses less yarn, making it ideal for sampling yarns and sweater gauges. A tube swatch is great when you want to practice your circular technique, test colorwork or patterns in the round, or if you prefer not to have long floats across the back of the fabric.

4. How do I keep the yarn floats on the back from distorting my fake in‑the‑round swatch?|
Carry the yarn loosely across the back each time you slide the stitches, leaving enough slack so the sides of the swatch don’t cinch in or pucker. After blocking, keep your ruler in the center of the swatch and avoid measuring right over the long floats at the edges, where tension can be distorted.​

5. How big should a gauge swatch in the round be?
As with flat swatches, aim for at least 10 cm x 10 cm (4 in x 4 in) of clean, measurable fabric and work extra stitches and rounds so you can measure in the middle. For tube swatches, you’ll often cast on roughly twice as many stitches as the pattern’s listed gauge width so the tube can be folded flat for accurate measuring.

6. Do I still need to wash and block an in‑the‑round swatch?
Yes, you should wash and block your circular swatch exactly as you plan to treat the finished garment, because fibers can relax and your in‑the‑round gauge often shifts after blocking. Record both pre‑blocked and post‑blocked measurements so you know what to watch for while you knit and what to expect after the first wash.​

7. What if my in‑the‑round gauge is different from my flat gauge?
It’s normal for your in‑the‑round gauge to differ from your flat gauge, especially if your purls are tighter or looser than your knits. Always trust and follow the in‑the‑round swatch for circular projects and adjust your needle size based on that fabric, not on a flat swatch.

What Comes Next in the Gauge Swatch Confidence Series

Flat and in‑the‑round swatches are measured and counted in almost the same way - but the tension behind them is often very different. Your hands, your purls, and your knitting habits all leave a signature in the fabric, and your gauge will only truly tell the truth if it matches how the project itself is worked.

Whenever the main fabric is knit in the round, it is worth choosing your gauge swatch to match: in‑the‑round swatch for in‑the‑round knitting, flat swatch for flat sections. Treat that little tube or fake in‑the‑round square with the same care as the real sweater, and it will quietly do its job: guiding your needle size, saving you from surprise ease, and helping every future sweater fit the way you imagined it.

Next time, I’d love to talk about borders around your gauge swatch and why I don't recommend it.

This article is Part 3 of the “Gauge Swatch Confidence” series:

• Knitting Gauge 101
• How to Knit and Measure a Swatch (Flat) 
• How to Knit and Measure a Swatch (Round)
• Borderless Gauge Swatches
• Adjusting Patterns to Your Gauge.

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